This guide provides everything you need to know about loft conversion design considerations, costings, planning and building regulations. A loft conversion is an ideal way to gain more space. There may be scope for one or two extra bedrooms possibly even with a bathroom or home office.

There is no doubt that it’s easier to extend than to move. If you’ve got some unused space, it’s worthwhile thinking about building into it to create that in demand extra space. This guide is the first in a series about getting the most from your property — going up, going down, going in and going out.

This article will be useful to anyone undertaking a loft conversion throughout England. If you are in West Yorkshire, Greater Manchester or anywhere in North of England areas then we are local architects who can provide specific hands on help with loft conversions. You can contact us here.

Common design considerations you are likely to face and will need to resolve are:

All these points are covered in further detail within this article. Despite these design considerations a loft conversion can be life changing and a cost effective solution to lack of space or facing up to the challenges of moving house.

Not all lofts are suitable for a loft conversion. Before going too far into planning your your loft conversion project, we suggest you carry out a brief survey that checks the following:

If you are confident about all these checks then you have passed the first stage of assessment. Your property may well be suitable for a loft conversion and you can proceed to assessing what kind of loft conversion you could have.

Do not despair if one of these five points highlights a problem. This doesn’t necessarily mean you have to throw your loft conversion plans out the window. There is always an answer and we can help you find it.

What type of loft conversion is most suitable for you will be influenced by three main factors:

1. The type of roof you have
2. What you want to use your loft for
3. Your budget

There are three types of loft conversions to consider. These are internal loft conversions, dormer loft conversions and loft conversions that require a full removal and build.

Internal loft conversions are usually the cheapest and require minimum building intervention. However, dormer loft conversions are the most common type of loft conversions because of the additional space they can provide with relatively simple building works. Full removal and build loft conversions will give you the most flexibility but they are the most complex and most expensive.

2. DORMER LOFT CONVERSIONS

With dormer loft conversions, dormer windows are added to increase the volume of the roof space while providing full head height. Dormers are usually added to the rear, but subject to planning permission, they can be added to the side or front of your property.

Following a loft conversion, the additional space can be used as an additional bedroom or two, a study or home office, a separate bathroom or a nursery. Or you can consider adding an en-suite or separate dressing room attached to a master bedroom.

3. ROOF OFF LOFT CONVERSIONS REQUIRING REMOVAL AND REBUILD

LOFT CONVERSION COSTINGS AND BUDGETS

What you pay for a loft conversion depends on the type you undertake. At current prices (August 2015) we would offer the following guide price per square meter. Note this excludes VAT and fees.

LOFT CONVERSION GUIDE PRICE PER SQUARE METER

• Simple rooflight conversion — £1,200 to £1,500
• Dormer conversion — £1,680 to £2,400

PROFESSIONAL FEES FOR YOUR LOFT CONVERSION

• Architects fees — a typical £30,000 to £40,000 loft conversion would be in the region of £1,200 to £2,400 for planning drawings
• Building regulations fees — Under 40m2 is £385 and 40 to 60m2 is £460
• Engineer’s structural design fees — in the region of £600 to £1,800
• Planning and certificate of lawful development fees — If you cannot carry out your loft conversion under Permitted Development Rights then a householder planning application costs £172. If you’re using your Permitted Development Rights, we advise you obtain a certificate of lawful development for £86. This certificate takes away any uncertainty and you can produce it when selling the property
• Building Control fees — in the region of £960 top £1,200
• Party wall arrangement fees — Budget about £850.00 per neighbour

LOFT CONVERSION BUILDING WORKS

• Heating — Radiators are typically £30 per m2 and underfloor heating is £45 per m2
• Boiler — If a new boiler is required with more capacity typical costs are usually between £1,800 and £3,500
• Bathrooms — Budget in the region of £4,500 to £11,000
• Decorating — Set aside £77.00 per square meter for plastering or dry lining and paint.
• Flooring — Plan for £24.00 per square meter upwards

PLANNING PERMISSION AND YOUR LOFT CONVERSION

You can extend your roof space by up to 50m3 (or 40 m3 for terraced housing) under Permitted Development Rights. This is providing the allowance hasn’t previously been removed or used up. This can save you the hassle of gaining planning permission, but there are strict limits to follow.

For example, no additions are allowed at the main elevation beyond the plane of the existing roof slope. Also, you can only use materials similar in appearance to the existing house.
Permitted Development Rights are removed for loft conversions exceeding the 40 m3 to 50 m3 space allowance, in conservation areas and in other designated zones, so you’ll always need full planning consent in here.

BUILDING REGULATIONS, PARTY WALLS AND SAFETY

BUILDING REGULATIONS

Loft conversions always need approval under Building Regulations (irrespective of whether they need planning permission). It pays to adopt the full plans application approach and have a detailed scheme approved before you find a builder. Having an approved design will take much of the risk out of the work and also mean the builder has a chance to give you a fixed quotation, rather than a vague estimate.

Your Building Control officer will inspect the work at various stages. On the final inspection they should issue you with a completion certificate — don’t settle any final accounts until you’ve received the certificate.

PARTY WALLS

If your house is semi-detached or terraced don’t forget to notify your neighbour(s) of your proposals. This requirement usually falls under the Party Wall Act 1996.

SAFETY

From April 2015 homeowners are now responsible for safety on their building projects – big or small. All projects will require a health and safety plan and you will be required to manage that plan.

THE ROOF STRUCTURE

The existing roof of your home is designed to keep out the rain and snow and to cope with light loft storage loading. After a loft conversion your roof will have to cope with
significantly different loadings. A new floor structure will be required. It is also likely that structural elements will need to be altered to allow for circulation within the room and roof windows. Roofs can generally be divided into two types.

1. Trussed Rafter Roofs — These have been common since the 1970s and roofs of this type are difficult to convert. Roof trusses are complex pieces of engineering and they should not be altered without the advice of a structural engineer. When converting this type of roof it is common for a series of beams to be installed to provide support to the new floor and to strengthen the rafters. This allows the bracing sections of the trusses to be cut out to create a clear floor area.
3. Traditional Roofs — These are generally made up from a series of rafters and purlins spanning between load bearing walls. These roofs are less complicated to convert than Trussed Rafter Roofs. However, beams are often required to provide support to the new floor structure and the existing purlins. A Structural Engineer’s design will be required for all but the simplest conversions.

ACCESSING YOUR LOFT CONVERSION

If you want to convert your loft for habitable use you will need to install a staircase. Careful design of this can be critical to the success of your loft conversion. If there is enough headroom it is often best to continue the stairs in the existing stairwell. This saves space and gives a feeling of continuity within the home. Alternatively part of a room will have to be partitioned off to accommodate the new staircase. Wherever the stairs are installed it should be designed in accordance with the following guidance:

1. Fire Precautions — Fire precautions are a major concern for the Building Regulations. The most dangerous fires generally occur at night when everyone is asleep. When converting your loft you will need to ensure you have mains powered, interlinked smoke detectors in the hall and/or landing areas of every floor.
2. Escape windows — These are windows large enough to allow people to escape or be rescued through them. They need to have a clear opening area of at least 0.33m2 and a clear width of at least 450mm. The bottom of the opening light should be no more than 1100mm above floor level and they should allow people to escape to a place free from danger. Escape windows need to be fitted with escape hinges that allow the window to fully open. Some of the standard hinges fitted to UPVC windows do not achieve this. It is wise to check this with your glazing supplier.
3. Two Storey Houses — The Building Regulations requirements for fire precautions in two storey housing are quite simple. It is generally felt that if you couldn’t get out down the stairs you could jump or be rescued from a first floor window. If you are converting the loft of a bungalow you will need to ensure that you have mains powered interlinked smoke detection at ground and first floor level and that all habitable rooms at first floor level have an escape window.
4. Three Storey Houses — When you convert the loft of a house and create a third floor the Building Regulations require you to look at the fire precautions a lot more seriously. Mains operated smoke detection need to be fitted. Due to the height of your new floor, you can no longer rely on escaping through the windows so the only safe way out is down the stairs. It is therefore vital that the stairs are protected from fire. To protect the stairs all of the doors that open onto the stairs need to be half hour fire doors and the stairs should discharge into a hall with a door direct to the outside. Alternatively, the stairs should deliver into a space with access to two external doors, separated from each other by fire resisting construction and fire doors. Generally, unless a sprinkler system or alternative escape stairway is provided, stairs cannot discharge into other rooms in three storey properties.
5. Four Storey Houses — If your house already has three storeys, loft conversions become more complicated. Careful design and planning is required to ensure that fire risks are minimised. You are likely to need to install a sprinkler system or a second escape stairway. This type of project will need specialist design.

BATHROOMS IN LOFT CONVERSIONS

You may want to include a bath or shower room in your loft conversion. The best place for this is generally directly above your existing bathroom. This should ensure you can connect into the existing drainage and water supplies without the need for excessive pipework. Any bath or shower room will also need to be fitted with an extractor fan to improve ventilation. We recommend you decide on the location of any bathrooms at an early stage in your space planning process.

If you are going to fit in a bathroom in your loft conversion then ensure you follow these tips:

• Place a shower where there is full headroom
• A WC and a washbasin ideally need full headroom
• A bath can be tucked under the eaves
• A wetroom can be a space-efficient option, but needs full tanking
• Use the voids in stud walls for concealed shower and tap mixers
• Concealed cisterns in metal frames for building into studwork are ideal
• Good lighting and large wall-to-wall mirrors create the illusion of space
• Wall-mounted sanitaryware helps make a small bathroom appear more spacious

Using a macerator system

If you want to add a WC in your new loft, but there is no suitably located existing soil stack, you will need to add a new one or, if this is too impractical or expensive, you can install a pumped macerator system.

A macerator is a small box which sits behind the toilet. It can be hidden behind a wall, although you will need access to it. The basic concept of a macerator is it uses rotating blades to chew up waste and reduces it so it can comfortably fit through your normal pipe work. A macerator can also be used to pump away water from your shower or sink.

While a macerator is a great way to get around tricky plumbing problems it does come with some drawbacks:

• You must stick to the ‘basics’ and avoid flushing anything complex like sanitary items
• It can be noisy and will continue to do its work for about 30 seconds after the flush
• There have been some reports of blockages and smells coming from the unit

However, there are recommended ways to use a macerator that will minimise the risk of these drawbacks.

THERMAL INSULATION

CO2 emissions are a major concern in today’s environment and you will need to provide a high level of insulation to your roof as part of your loft conversion.

The most common way of achieving this is to place a high performance insulation board in between and below the rafters. Unless your roof has a breathable felt you will need to leave a void above the insulation and ensure that you have effective roof ventilation to prevent the build-up of condensation.

SOUND INSULATION

To reduce unwanted noise the walls and floor around bedrooms will need to be insulated to reduce sound transmission. This is generally achieved by placing 100mm of sound deadening quilt in the floor void and in the partitions around the bedrooms. If you are converting the loft of a semi-detached or terraced property you will need to ensure that the sound resistance of the Party Wall is upgraded so that sound transmission to your neighbours is reduced.

HEATING

To maximise the usability of the room you will probably want to install heating. In most instances the most effective way of doing this is to extend the existing central heating system. You will need to check with your plumber or heating engineer to ensure that your existing boiler has sufficient capacity to serve any additional radiators. New radiators should be fitted with thermostatic valves to control the room temperature. If it is not possible to extend the existing system or if you prefer an alternative method of heating, (e.g. electric panel heaters), careful consideration should be given to how these can be controlled to ensure they function efficiently.

ELECTRICS

You are likely to require some electrical alterations as part of your loft conversion. Depending
on the age and condition of your existing electrical system it is sometimes possible to extend existing circuits. Sometimes new circuits and even a new distribution board will be required. It is a good idea to get advice from a competent electrician at an early stage. When appointing an electrician please ensure they are able to issue you with BS7671 test certificates when they have completed their installation. This will be required before your Building Regulations Completion Certificate can be issued and you will incur additional costs if the test
certificates have not been provided.

WINDOWS AND VENTILATION

Any new habitable rooms will need to be ventilated. Generally this is achieved by providing an opening window or roof light equivalent to 1/20th of the floor area of the room with a trickle vent at high level. All new windows must be fitted with highly efficient double glazed units. In bath or shower rooms an extractor fan should be fitted. Rooms without opening windows require extractor fans that are triggered by the light switch with overrun timers. This allows the fan to remain on after the light is switched off.

LIGHTING

In a successful interior lighting scheme, different light sources should be combined. Light sources include:

• Ambient lighting — substituting for daylight
• Task lighting — for reading and working
• Accent lighting — to add atmosphere

Good lighting options on sloping ceilings (which you will have in a loft conversion) include down lights and track lighting. A section of flat ceiling beneath the ridge or within a dormer window is the ideal surface for down lights. Where the ridge is higher, it may be possible to suspend pendants or use a track lighting system. Ambient lighting can be achieved with floor and table lamps, providing they are on a switched lighting circuit so that they can be controlled, and ideally dimmed from the main wall switches.

CONCLUSIONS ABOUT BUILDING A LOFT CONVERSION

A successful loft conversion is a definite asset to your home. It can provide useful extra space
and add value to your property. However a poorly converted loft can reduce your property’s value and in some cases compromise your safety and the structural integrity of your home.

As you can see there are many elements that you ought to consider when planning a loft conversion. You can use this guide and manage a loft conversion yourself. However, if you want to make sure it’s done right, its generally a good idea to hire a professional Architect to ensure you have a quality loft conversion that stands the test of time and adds value to your property.

We have witnessed the aftermath of many clients who been conned by hiring COWBOY ARCHITECT (a name given to the person or company acting dishonesty as qualified & licenced architect). Seeing the devastation, Architect’s HQ Ltd has started a campaign to stop this behaviour immediately and to alert general public of their shortcoming and to advise the best course of action to stop this.

It is well documented that building project consist of many problems, however to enable a good chance of minimising  the struggle the client would need to receive the right architectural advice from the very begining of the process. If not, you would more than likely enter the ever growing club of victims who are suffering alone from projects that have gone disasterly wrong.

Please follow the link to see examples of bodge jobs as catalogue on the national TV show; www.cowboybuilders.tv  You will note an common pattern has emerge from each case, the client not knowing the process nor having an architect to police their contractor behaviour or possessing the tools or knowledge to fight for their interest to deliver their project’s vision.

The root cause to the above is the poor preparation and advice given to the client by the ‘Cowboy’ architect. Unfortunately there isn’t the same level of exposure to identify the fraudsters, hence why Architect’s HQ Ltd have started this campaign.

The architectural profession is tarnished and undervalued by the damage caused by these individuals/ companies who deceive clients and are a menace to society.

Here are few examples of projects which have been advertised on national newspaper that have gone wrong due to the poor quality of architectural service received. As you will see each project has either been stopped, altered or changed for the worst, to save money or comply with Planning or Building Control or Health & Safety measures. And most of the time the victim is left on his/her own to deal with the mess. One cannot imagine the misery or the everlasting damage it has caused to  individual and families until is over;

We don’t want you to become the next potential victim, who is risking life by living in a dangerous structure as you have no where go or to get help, Thus, it is vitally important Clients understand their rights and made to recognise the potential danger to expose to their project by hiring the wrong person. To safeguard people livelihoods and improve the standard of architecture in England we need your support to grow this CAMPAIGN to stop and root out the Cowboy Architects.

Architect’s HQ Ltd is licensed, professional and registered with Architectural Registered Board , clients who have hired us received the right quality of advice from the very beginning, understood the project timescales, know how and where their budget is spent within their project vision, carried out their CDM responsibilities,etc. Consequently, each one ended up with a product that only gave them immense satisfaction but optimise the asset and created value.

“PLEASE report them to the Architect’s Registration Board if they do not have this information so we can get rid of these cowboys from our industry permanently”.

By doing this, you will employ an fully trained architect who has taken rigourous education at university of 7 years and with substantial professional experience offering an attitude of excellance to deliver a service of which you deserve.

We aim to build trust between our partners and clients by offering the following benefits;

Furthermore, our past clients have enjoyed the journey of their project through understanding what architecture is about and in process obtained invaluable memories that everlasting.

A conversion project (turning an existing building with an alternative use into residential) is treated similarly to a new build, but with many similar problems to a renovation project such as vacant buildings between purchase and getting the build underway, and the same problems can occur (see above).

Conversion insurance policies are available from specialist providers, and they follow similar lines to the home improvement policy, covering up to 110% of the value of the existing structure and 125% of the proposed contract sum, together with public liability and employers’ insurance. Again, each policy is priced according to the nature and scope and value of the works.

The flow diagram is a simple checklist to assist you in determining the needs of your project.

Self-build projects come in many different forms, from 100% DIY; main contractor or subcontractors with you as the contractor managing them; timber frame system; custom build; or a turnkey solution. Irrespective of what you choose, you will need building project insurance, and it is prudent to have one all encompassing Site Insurance Policy, which you are in control of, from a specialist supplier.

5 REASONS WHY YOU NEED COVER FOR YOURSELF AND YOUR PROJECT AS A SELF BUILDER

1. As soon as you purchase a plot or building, as the owner, you are liable for any injuries to third parties and members of the public on your site, and you must have adequate Public Liability insurance by law.
2. If you are responsible for any part of the construction works as opposed to using one main contractor for everything and you are using subcontractors or direct labour then technically, both in terms of insurance and under CDM 2015, you are the main contractor and employer, and are responsible for those working on the site. Even if the subcontractors have their own insurance, and they have an accident, they may see you as their best option for recompense, and if you have not got insurance, you will be exposed. You can cover for this with Employer’s Liability insurance.
3. Mortgage lenders will not normally release any money without proof of site insurance being in place.
4. If you run into difficulties during the build, for example, vandalism or flooding, an All Risks Contract Works Insurance, to cover the new works, temporary works, existing structures and materials could mean a completed project rather than an abandoned site with disastrous financial implications.
5. Other items to have covered would be, hired plant tools and equipment, your plant tools and equipment, caravans and site huts, personal possessions, personal accident and broken bones cover.

In summary, as a minimum new build self-build site insurance should provide one comprehensive cover for all aspects of your site. This should include:

• Public and Employer’s Liability
• Building works and materials
• Plant tools and equipment
• Site huts and temporary buildings (including caravans)
• Existing structure (on conversions, renovations and extensions)
• Personal accident cover
• Legal expenses

INSURANCE BACKED WARRANTIES

If your project involves extensive structural changes to the existing structure or has substantial new buildings or extensions, paying for a structural warranty might be prudent.

Under the terms of a standard project works contract, you will be protected for either six or twelve years, depending if the contract is undertaken under seal or as a deed. However, if the contractor goes bust within this period, your protection will disappear with them.

In such circumstance, you might consider purchasing an insurance backed guarantee which will be there if your contractor is or not. If you want to sell the home within the guaranteed period, a future home buyer will be reassured by such cover. Even if your contractor is still in business, it can be difficult to assign contractual responsibility to a third party.

Normally the project will be audited periodically during the build by a representative of the insurance provider.

There are specialist warranty providers in the market and again, specialist advice should be sought before entering into any insurance.

Extensions and renovations, and self build new home building project insurance:

• Build zone

Extensions and renovations (will require the use of one of their member contractors):

• Federation of Master Builders
• Home Improvements Guarantee (HIG)
• Homepro

Self-build new home insurance:

• National House Builders Council (NHBC) 
• LABC

LIFE AND/OR INJURY COVER

You may also want to consider additional life and/or injury cover.

LEGAL EXPENSES

If any cover you choose does not include legal expenses, it is a good option to arrange this separately to cover such items as contract disputes or eviction of squatters.

RESTRICTIVE COVENANTS

Historic Restrictive Covenants can influence and control future use of land for the benefit of nearby landowners. They can also be worded so that the benefits pass to future owners. Before purchase, your solicitors should have checked your title deeds, passed over from the previous owners, or available from the Land Registry, which will confirm if there is indeed a valid restrictive covenant that could restrict or prevent you from developing your property.

If there is a covenant placed on your property, you should firstly talk to a specialist insurance professional to see whether indemnity insurance is available to provide you with protection if a beneficiary tries to enforce the covenant. Do not communicate with the beneficiary before contacting an insurer.

The specialist insurer will assess the covenant and its enforceability, the probability of the beneficiaries making a claim and the amount of possible financial damages then, according to the risk, set a one-off premium payment.

Remember your contents and buildings policies will need updating on completion to reflect the extra upgraded space and, rebuild value.

The majority of self-build insurance providers charge a single premium based on a sliding scale of the rebuilding costs.

For conversions and renovations, a survey may be required for assessment. Personal contents will not be covered by a self-build policy, although where a self-build policy is converted to a standard household policy upon completion of the project, it can be included in the normal way.

Typically each Construction Cost (or Contract Value) will take 50 – 60% of the budget for a house extension. It is vital for each project you set aside a 5% contingency for unforeseen items and 20% for VAT payment (however for domestic project if the house has been empty for 2 years then VAT can be 5%, of which is a great potential saving) and this will take it up to about 85%. You need to set aside about 5% for Planning, Building Control and Party Walls and finally 10 -15% is on professional fees.

On complicated projects phasing or decanting would be required to minimise disruption and speed up the construction phase.

Why don’t you try out our Project Cost Calculator to give you an approximate overview of your budget cost by confirming a few facts. If you need assistance or clarification, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

If you wish more detail again, the CITB have also produced the following guide “need building work done”  plus we would suggest you also look at both the CITB’s and HSE’s websites for lots of other information:

Who is a domestic client? A domestic client is someone who has construction work carried out on their own home, or on the home of a family member, which is not carried out in connection with a business.

What should a domestic client do? The only responsibility you need to worry about is that you, as client, are responsible for appointing a Principal Designer as well as a Principal Contractor. If you do not your duties are automatically transferred to the Contractor or Principal Contractor. The Health and Safety Executive (HSE) provide information on defining domestic clients here.

Who is the principle designer? As ‘lead’ designer does this role now automatically fall on architects? No is the short answer. Architects will likely be able to carry out these services for you in domestic scenarios, however, by law a written appointment is required with your architect to confirm they will carry out these services on your behalf.

Once appointed the Principal Designer is responsible for the management of health and safety during the pre-construction phase of your project. The HSE define their duties as follows.

The Principal Designer must:

• plan, manage, monitor and coordinate health and safety in the pre-construction phase. In doing so they must take account of relevant information (such as an existing health and safety file) that might affect design work carried out both before and after the construction phase has started
• help and advise the client in bringing together pre-construction information, and provide the information designers and contractors need to carry out their duties
• work with any other designers on the project to eliminate foreseeable health and safety risks to anyone affected by the work and, where that is not possible, take steps to reduce or control those risks
• ensure that everyone involved in the pre-construction phase communicates and cooperates, coordinating their work wherever required
• liaise with the principal contractor, keeping them informed of any risks that need to be controlled during the construction phase

Further information on the duties of Principal Designers as defined by the Health and Safety Executive can be found by clicking here.

Who is the principal contractor? When you are ready to begin construction work which involves more than one trade, a Principal Contractor must be appointed. For most domestic projects this will be the case and the contractor who undertakes to coordinate the other trades should be appointed as Principal Contractor. The primary duties of the Principal Contractor are to prepare a construction phase health and safety plan and manage the works safely on the site. The HSE define the scope of the role as follows.

The Principal Contractor must:

• plan, manage, monitor and coordinate the entire construction phase
• take account of the health and safety risks to everyone affected by the work (including members of the public), in planning and managing the measures needed to control them
• liaise with the client and principal designer for the duration of the project to ensure that all risks are effectively managed
• prepare a written construction phase plan before the construction phase begins, implement, and then regularly review and revise it to make sure it remains fit for purpose
• have ongoing arrangements in place for managing health and safety throughout the construction phase
• consult and engage with workers about their health, safety and welfare
• ensure suitable welfare facilities are provided from the start and maintained throughout the construction phase
• check that anyone they appoint has the skills, knowledge, experience and, where relevant, the organisational capability to carry out their work safely and without risk to health
• ensure all workers have site-specific inductions, and any further information and training they need
• take steps to prevent unauthorised access to the site
• liaise with the principal designer to share any information relevant to the planning, management, monitoring and coordination of the pre-construction phase

More information about the role of the Principal Contractor can found on the HSE website here

THE PROCESS

The following flowchart walks you through the transfer of client duties from a domestic client to other duty holders.

FORMAL NOTIFICATION OF A PROJECT TO THE HSE VIA A F10 FORM

In our experience most domestic projects under £250,000.00 ex VAT do not have more than 20 working on site at anyone time or exceed 500 working days so notification to the need for formal notification to the HSE is unlikely

WHAT IS A HEALTH AND SAFETY FILE (HSF)?

The HSF is a record of information, which focuses of identified risk. The contents will alert those involved in a project of the health and safety risks that will need to be taken account of during subsequent maintenance, repair or other construction work including demolition.

WHAT INFORMATION SHOULD BE INCLUDED IN THE SAFETY FILE?

1.    A brief description of the work carried out.

2.    Any hazards that have not been eliminated through the design and construction processes, and how they have been addressed (e.g. surveys or other information concerning asbestos or contaminated land).

3.    Key structural principles (e.g. bracing, sources of substantial stored energy – including pre- or post-tensioned members) and safe working loads for floors and roofs.

4.    Hazardous materials used (e.g. lead paints and special coatings).

5.    Information regarding the removal or dismantling of installed plant and equipment (e.g. any special arrangements for lifting such equipment).

6.    Health and safety information about equipment provided for cleaning or maintaining the structure.

7.    The nature, location and markings of significant services, including underground cables; gas supply equipment; fire-fighting services etc.

8.    Information and as-built drawings of the building, its plant and equipment (e.g. the means of safe access to and from service voids and fire doors).

Most of the relevant items mentioned above survey etc are taken account of / collected in the normal pre-construction design process. With specific reference to no “b” –  Asbestos, for pre-1980s houses, we would always require homeowners to have an Asbestos Refurbishment and Demolition Survey undertaken. More information about asbestos and the survey can found on our separate blog “Asbestos and Domestic Projects”.

WHAT IS A CONSTRUCTION PHASE PLAN

The construction phase plan records arrangements for managing significant health and safety risks associated with the construction of the project and is the basis for communicating those arrangements to those involved in the construction phase. It outlines the health and safety arrangements and site rules taking into account any industrial activities taking place on site, and, where applicable, must include specific measures concerning any work involving the particular risks identified.

We would direct you to the following HSE document Construction Phase Plan (CDM 2015) What you need to know as a busy builder

What do you do if you want to extend your home, but your garden is too small to allow it, or your loft is unsuitable for conversion? You may think the only way to get extra space is to move house. However, there is another possibility. Consider a basement conversion, or basement extension, excavating below ground to gain space from a basement.

“Basements are slowly becoming more popular in the UK as people look for more space and don’t have the ability to extend wider, longer or higher.

Sometimes, the only way to get more room without moving house is to go down into a basement.

To understand the issues, benefits and cost related to basement conversions please scroll below for brief description of what is required or alternatively just get in contact with us and we will be glad to assist.

Why is a basement conversion or extension a good value for money?
11 Ways to a Better Basement
Basement Typologies 
Basement Conversion or Extension Suitability
Outline your Aims
Basement Extensions:Statutory Approval
Party Wall Award for Basements

As always the building trend of basement related work started in London due to the limitation of space and high cost of moving to larger property. Converting or extending the basement or cellar into habitable space became feasible and became the obvious choice to create that extra room or the secret wow factor within the house of which started the phenomenon to grow across the country.

The clear benefits outweight the extra cost for the basement conversion or extension, these are;

• The extra space will add value to the house.

• The space is more adaptable and can offer variety of use: bedroom, study room, store room, bathroom, cinema etc.

• Due to the popularity of having basements it has led to technology and products which have made it easier to build and manage the internal environment easier.

• There are more options to attractive spacious design of basements and is viewed as desired option rather than moving to bigger house.

• It is easier to obtain Planning permission for basement conversion or extensions than building extending your building on single or double storey extension as it is out of sight and can be approved as it sits within permitted development area.

On the flip side, the major disadvantage of going down into a basement can be the cost. However, in areas where building land is scarce and property values are high, basements can work financially. If the property has an existing basement in your property, even if it is in a bad state of repair or with a low ceiling, it will still be cheaper than a traditional new build extension.

Another disadvantage is that the construction process of a basement conversion or basement extension can be complex. Like any building work it will be disruptive, noisy and messy especially if underpinning is required. Even though excavation is usually accessed externally the breakthrough isn’t until it’s time to install a connecting staircase and the neighbours won’t like it.

So, yes a basement extension is a good idea! Don’t be put off. You just need to come at it from the right angle. And that’s where a good architect comes in. Give us a call if you have a basement in mind.

1. Basement refurbishment or conversion of an existing cellar. This is the most straightforward option that uses old cellar spaces which often have bare brick walls and lack waterproofing. They tend to exist beneath Victorian and Edwardian houses. If there is enough headroom such a basement conversion would involve damp proofing, improving the staircase and access, and finishing works. If there isn’t enough headroom the build gets more complex as the basement conversion will need the floor to be lowered and the ceiling to be raised.

2. A retrofit basement is when a basement is added to an existing home. Adding a new basement to an existing building requires extensive and pricey excavations and possibly underpinning to party walls. However, such basement conversions are still viable in high value properties and neighbourhoods or when there is no other way to achieve more required space. Such basement extensions can be underneath your property or extend further out.

3. Building a new basement from scratch. This is when basements are constructed as part of a new build. This is a straight forward option and can be fully or semi underground. Including a basement in a new build design can be a great way to get more space from your land.

You will also need a Party Wall Award with a neighbour with a good, clear structural design. We have a post on Party Wall Awards for House Extensions that explain the process.

There is no legal obligation for asbestos-cement products to be removed. The Health and Safety Executive’s (HSE) advise is that if in good condition, it is more often than not safer to leave it undisturbed and in situ, rather than risk releasing fibres into the air by any action to remove it.

How to deal with asbestos                                                                                                   

In the first instance, there are free downloadable sheets on asbestos removal on the HSE website together with lots of other useful information.

On asbestos-cement roofing, the HSE’s advice is to leave in situ, either sealing it or covering it over.

Similarly, with textured coatings such as Artex, they can be left in situ and skimmed over with ordinary multi-finish plaster, or a coating called Artex Ceiling Finish. Alternatively, depending on the construction behind, they can be boarded over with plasterboard.

However, ceiling or wall should then be labelled, to warn what lurks beneath. Asbestos-cement or Artex should never be drilled, scraped or dry-sanded, which risks freeing fibres into the atmosphere.

Artex can be safely removed using a wet method using a wallpaper steam stripper or a special gel. As long as the Artex remains damp, the fibres will not become airborne. Precautions still need to be taken, including sealing doors and windows with polyethene sheets, disposable clothing and the use of a respirator. The scrapings should be then bagged while still damp, labelled ‘asbestos’, and taken to a local authority’s licensed local authority disposal site which exist in both West Yorkshire and Greater Manchester.

For small quantities of white asbestos-cement sheeting, such as a garden shed or lean-to roof, it can be bagged for disposal at the same dumps. For information on the Calderdale – West Yorkshire,facilities see here and for Greater Manchester here.

Blue and brown asbestos will need to be dealt with by specialist licensed removal contractors who will be obliged to notify the HSE about the removal, even when it is for asbestos-cement which can result in high costs.

PRE-CONSTRUCTION “Asbestos – Refurbishment and demolition surveys”

To comply with the regulations under CDM 2015, see our separate blog “How do the Construction Management Regulations 2015 (CDM 2015) apply to domestic clients?” In identifying any risks in the pre-construction phases on any residential project, Architect’s HQ Ltd would always require homeowners to have a Refurbishment and Demolition Survey undertaken. Again the HSE website is a good starting point have produced a booklet on asbestos surveys Asbestos: The survey guide as well as the main bulk of the PDF, please see page 48 Appendix 1.

We will be able to recommend a surveyor at the appropriate stage of the project